Armenians have a secret: they seize the day. Add to that an extraordinary sense of hospitality, and here you are, sitting at tables filled with delicious dishes at anytime of the day and wherever you are.

        ‘Little’ coffee with the mayor of Khatchen

During our visits to villages, after a few chats together, the inhabitants invited us spontaneously to have a ‘little’ coffee with them. It was impossible to refuse as the table was already set for us. Do not trust the word ‘little’ here, as the coffee is never served on its own. A selection of delicacies comes with it: sweets, chocolates, pieces of fresh fruit, sunflower seeds, etc. The mayor of the village, the director of the school and the director of the boarding school we met always had an extra-special bottle of brandy for us to taste. When it felt like our mouths were on fire, they told us not to worry, that it was 100% natural!

Our friends invited us to big celebrations where family and friends got together. We entered their universe: in the middle of the dining-room, the big dining table was already set with a myriad of little dishes that gave us the eye. Each guest had a small plate and picked up what they liked. What dish to start with? Cheese (panir) rolled in lavash* with herbs (coriander, tarragon, onions, etc.)? Hmm… Or some pickles: cabbage, bamias*, crocus bulbs, peppers, big Molossol gherkins? Or maybe these little mushrooms picked up in the mountains? Or the soujour* and the pasturma* sliced thinly? But already, more dishes were being brought to us. Where would our hosts put them down?

The dolmas, a mixture of wheat (or rice) and meat rolled in vine leaves or cabbage, are absolutely delicious. Another version, in the shape of morsels rolled in pasta and steamed, reminded us of Asian food. The traditional dish of herbs cooked with eggs was also brought on the table.

Meat lovers were not disappointed. Armenians are specialists in preparing rolovats (large meat skewers covered in spices and roasted carefully on iron skewers – essential tools for picnics) and kebabs when it is made with minced meat. It was not possible to go through a whole week without eating keftas (boiled meatballs and onions, served with a good amount of butter). These different dishes were often served with delicious roasted potatoes.

In restaurants, we tasted lamajos (crusty pancakes filled with minced meat). There is also a vegetarian version of it, called gigalovats, which comes with a mix of all kinds of aromatic herbs (this is a specialty from Karabakh sold in markets).

Of course, we cannot speak about these delicious dishes without mentioning the drinks that come with them! Two glasses would be standing in front of each of us: a small one and a big one. The big one is kept for thirst-quenching drinks: Jermuk (the sparkling water of choice for Armenians), delicious natural fruit juices (cherry, apricot, etc.), Armenian beer. The small glass (for the anecdote) is used for spirits: Armenian cognac, vodka or local brandy (sometimes wine for women). During the numerous toasts that punctuated the meal, we raised this glass to mothers and children’s health, to the Franco-Armenian friendship, and to everything we wanted to wish to each other.


The evenings livened up quickly. From time to time, we all stood up to dance, men as much as women. To the beat of oriental music, arms rose up and waved graciously by drawing many arabesques in the air. Then the desserts would be brought to the table: famous very sweet small pastries that we enjoyed (they are a bit like baklavas). Then, we had coffee and tea always served with excellent jams. The meals often started early around 5pm, and we left each other sometimes after midnight without having seen the time flying.

Gabrielle
(Translation: Yolene Dabreteau)

*Lavash: bread in the shape of large and thin pancakes (see the video ‘Making of lavash’).
*Bamias: small green conical hairy vegetables that are a bit sticky.
*Soujour and pasturma: variety of spiced sausages.