Change of scene
By Gabrielle on Wednesday, May 27 2009, 18:16 - Journey stories - Permalink
Persia is a crossroads where men coming from far-off lands have passed each
other over the centuries. Conquerors and merchants have left their imprint on
today’s Iranians’ faces: fair or dark skin, old people with mandarin profile,
red-haired and blond-haired, it’s a big mix. This is where three big geological
plates meet. They gave birth to gigantic chains of mountains and landscapes as
diverse as extraordinary. By going across Iran, we had the feeling of passing
through different worlds. What a trip!
When we arrived, it was like landing on the moon in the middle of big folded
mountains with shades of beige, yellow and ochre, dotted here and there with
dazzling white summits. Taking photos was inadvisable because of the border
area…it’s a pity!
A few days later, after having skirted around Mount Sabaland and its 4,811
metres, we plunged down towards the Caspian Sea in the middle of green hills
drowned in the mist. Did a genie transport us to Ireland? The young delicate
green tree leaves shone under the sun. There was something surreal about this
descent towards Astara. The next day, a taxi dropped us on the beach in the
middle of nowhere. We put on our big bags and joined the seashore. We walked
alone most of the time and sometimes met fishermen busy around their wooden
boats. On our left was the calm and flat sea and on our right the misty
hills.
During our different stops, we heard people speaking about Masuleh. It is a
charming village set high up above the Gilan. The welcome there was nice, and
we walked from roof to roof to admire the density of the woods that cover the
valley and cool down the air at nightfall.
Masuleh
We went then to the southeast in the direction of Tehran in order to penetrate
the mystery of the legendary castles of the Assassins that are hidden in the
mist of the valley of Alamut. New shades of brown, rust and green, overlooked
by snowy summits exposed themselves to our gaze for miles around…except for
when we entered one of those thick clouds that cover the valley. We arrived in
Gazor Khan, a village of a few hundred souls, on top of which one of those
1,000 year-old castles stands. The members of an Ismaelian cult used to meet
here to foment the assassination of political leaders of the time. The history
tells that the volunteers were taking hashish to perpetrate their crimes, hence
the name ‘Hashish-lyun’ (the origin of the word ‘assassin’). In the meantime,
the Mongols came along. In the 8th century, they put an end to this epic,
leaving only ruins behind them.
The valley of Alamut
A few days later and about 700 kilometres down south, it was a total change of
scene. Departing Ispahan, we climbed into a small bus that dashed towards the
east. Bit by bit, the housing and the vegetation gave way to a large expanse of
black and grey stones. We got off at Toudeshk, a small village at the doors of
this particular desert made out of sand and salt: the Dasht-e-Kavir. There, the
houses are made of a mix of earth and straw, which is a perfect insulator for
this region subject to extreme temperatures. From the top of the dune of dark
rocks that dominates the village, the green square of cultivation adjoins the
brown square of housing, in the middle of this huge plain edged with a long
chain of mountains in the distance. Only the powerful wind and the noise of our
steps disturbed the silence that reigned over us.
Toudeshk
Yet, the surprise was not over: the next day, we went to the bottom of big
sand dunes that looked just like you would imagine. Despite the early hour, the
sun was already parading high in the sky and made the climb difficult. What a
reward when the immensity of the desert cleared in front of us. The group split
up, as if each one wished to absorb this infinity on his/her own and stand
gazing at this deep silence that overcomes the soul. Here was for us a
dreamlike experience of the desert, but we discovered a bit later that it could
not last. A bus full of female Iranian students arrived. From as far as we
were, we could hear their shouts and laughs. For them, the dunes are a huge
playground where they can happily unwind and roll in the sand. Their good mood
was infectious. We calmly came down from our retreat to go back to the world of
mankind: the town.
At the end of our stay, we went across this desert again in the train that
brought us from Yazd to Tehran. It gave us as a last sight a huge plain of sand
covered with a coat of fine white salt.
To think we had only travelled a quarter of the country!
Gabrielle
(Translation: Yolene Dabreteau)