On our way towards the north of India, we stopped in Ahmedabad, the capital town of the state of Gujarat. This is where the famous Indian independent leader Gandhi was born, the apostle of non-violence.

We followed in his steps to his ashram, that he founded in 1917 when he returned from South Africa. We entered the house where he lived until 1930. After that, he left for the Dandi Salt March, making the wish to only come back when India was freed from British domination. He died on 30th January 1948, a few months after independence was proclaimed in 1947. In the museum, we read the tributes paid by other important men (Einstein, Martin Luther King, etc.). They repeat the accounts of the bringers of hope that we met and whose actions are inspired by Gandhi.

            In Gandhi’s house

Two days later, we let ourselves be guided into the world of the old Ahmedabad. We got lost in the lane ways and entered the pols (‘door’ in Gujarati): they are small areas typical of the architecture of the town. They have only one entrance to better defend itself in case of an attack, and secret passages to flee more easily.

             The Hindu temple Swaminarayan Mandir Kalupur

Initially, Hindu, Jain and Muslim people each had their areas, and the town was organised in such a way that they never had to meet each other, except on the main square of the market. Each religion rivalled each other to show the most beautiful sanctuaries to visitors.

            Temple Jain (top) and mosque Jumma Masjid (bottom)

In the afternoon, we went to see the step-well of Dada Hari. We played Indiana Jones in this huge water reservoir of the 15th century, six levels underground, among sculpted columns and bats.

            Dada Hari

On the other side of the river, Ahmedabad looked more modern. The famous architect Le Corbusier had gone through here. We contemplated one of his works and two Korean architecture students shared their marvel with us. We were more skeptical in front of all this concrete, even though some of the layout did not lack harmony.

             The ATMA building - Le Corbusier

We had arrived at Ahmedabad by chance, as we were coming to meet the members of SEWA. The town is not really known by tourists. However, in addition to its old (and less old) stones, Ahmedabad also has the quiet kindness of its inhabitants on its side. It was a nice surprise.

Gabrielle and François
(Tranlation: Yolene Dabreteau)